This article is also available in Italian / Questo articolo è disponibile anche in italiano
From printing inks and dyes to fabric treatment, from synthetic fibres to whitening agents, from finishing and washing fibres to recycling: the textiles industry is a complex sector where chemicals play an increasingly important role, with multiple processes involved in each phase. Published on 30 March 2022, the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles tackles the issues of production, consumption, and post-consumption of textile products in relation to the Circular Economy Action Plan and the European Industrial Strategy. The textiles Strategy fits within the vision of the European Commission, which, as a measure to combat fast fashion, aims, by 2030, to have on the European market only textile products that are durable, repairable, and recyclable, made primarily from recyclable fibres, free from hazardous substances, manufactured in accordance with social and environmental precepts.
"To incentivise circularity in the sector, it would be useful to introduce a requirement to use a minimum ratio of recycled fibres in all new products, supported by incentives for businesses that are concerned with the end-of-life management and recycling of materials," says Pietro Pin, President of the UNI Textile and Clothing Commission and member of the technical board on textiles of the Technical-Scientific Committee at Ecomondo, speaking to Renewable Matter. "Furthermore, a solution should be found to the issues that emerge from the implementation of the REACH Regulation. Many textile products, especially those manufactured in the past or imported from countries outside the EU, can contain materials whose use is now no longer permitted, thus preventing mechanical recycling. Therefore, what would be needed is a derogation from the regulation, as well as a harmonisation of sustainability certifications for textile products, which currently lack uniform standards. The goal is to find a technical-political solution to incentivise the use of post-consumer materials."
From chemical and mechanical recycling to new textile technologies
Despite the issues and possible improvements, this EU directive sees Italy at an advantage due to the establishment of various consortiums for recycling waste from the textiles sector, but also thanks to the presence of numerous pioneers in terms of technological and materials innovation that are paving the way toward industry-wide circularity and sustainability. One of these is Casati Flock, a manufacturer of recycled flock, a textile powder obtained from cutting or grinding natural, artificial, animal, and synthetic fibres, thanks to innovative mechanical recycling technology.
Casati Flock is not an isolated case. From a technological perspective, Prato-based Ommi is at the cutting edge of recycling machinery with the recent introduction of Recoline HP, a new defibering machine for processing post-consumer textile waste, such as used clothing, as well as fibres derived from pre-consumer waste. These businesses, together with institutions like Next Technology Tecnotessile, a hub for technology transfer, innovation, and support for research, development, and training for companies in the textiles, fashion, and textile machinery sectors, were present at Ecomondo 2024, held at the Rimini Exhibition Centre (Fiera di Rimini) between 5 and 8 November 2024. Organised by the Italian Exhibition Group, Ecomondo is the leading event in Europe and the Mediterranean for the green and circular economy in pursuit of the targets of the European Green Deal.
The complex relationship between textiles and chemistry is especially current considering that the EU Waste Framework Directive requires member states to guarantee the separate collection of textile products destined for reuse, preparation for reuse, and recycling by 1 January 2025. With this in mind, Ecomondo has hosted the Textile District since 2021. This year, it showcased innovation and technology from the sector, from separate collection to reuse, from recycling to ecodesign, all the way to fashion rentals and second-hand sales.
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